Goa – Crazy Road Trip with a Big Surprise

 

We were warned about Indian traffic, but I don’t think any number of warnings can truly prepare someone for the pure chaos of India’s drivers and roadways. Bill thinks that he finally understands Einstein’s predictions of anti-matter after having seen how the roads of India can seemingly fit infinite vehicles across them.

We bartered a low low price of 1350 rupees (Kim was very pleased) for a round trip taxi to Old Goa and the Sahakari spice plantation in Ponda. The seat belt-less, battered, 1990’s Volkswagen van knockoff of a taxi was bursting to have us in it, just like it’s enigmatic driver Al-something-or-other (Alfonzo? Al Capone?). Al’s fond stories of Portuguese Goa and his sharp words about the capitalistic development of late were barely audible over his constant honking and the motor scooters zipping around us. We enjoyed the trip nonetheless, catching some great views along the winding jungle roads; we also realised that we’d already become desensitised to the chaotic road rules. This was made most apparent when we both shrugged at a mother and 3 children piloting a moped, hot on the trail of a flat bed with an even larger family dangling their feet off the sides, children screaming with glee as the truck swayed back and forth.

Old Goa

As you may or may not know, Goa was a Portuguese colony until 1961. Old Goa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with beautiful 15-17th century European architecture. For us, this former capital of Portuguese Goa proved to be a quiet refuge from the hustle and bustle of the nightclub ridden beach side.

Spice Plantation

Another 30km later, we arrived at Sahakari Spice Plantation. As we walked through the entrance we found ourselves surrounded by green foliage comprised of banana trees, coconut trees, and about a hundred other trees of unknown variety. We were given hot lemon grass tea and a brief introduction to the many medicinal uses of various spices – it seemed like every spice cured erectile dysfunction… As Hamesh, our tour guide, led us through the thick, aromatic, jungle, he told us the story of the plantation. The spice plantation was created 300 years ago because the owner would often forget which spices were which by the time he got back from the market. He decided to start a spice garden, but it overgrew and became the plantation it is today.

Kim took a bunch of photos throughout the tour, but they all look the same. All green leaves. Some of the more obvious ones can be seen below.

 

Betelnut tree

Cocoa beans

Nutmeg and mace

Portuguese hot chilis

We were just about to end our tour when we heard Hamesh say, “Oh shit. The elephant.”

It was bath time for the owner’s pet elephant, we paused our tour for a bit to enjoy the front row seat.

 

We finished off the tour with a delicious mixed thali of dishes cooked with the plantation’s spices.

Sunset on our Last Night in Goa

After a long but rewarding day we had a much needed nap. We forced ourselves to wake up for the sunset and dinner though, as it would be our last night in Goa. We dragged our groggy bodies to Britto’s, a beach-side Portuguese-Indian restaurant with a great view.